Wat Chalong
Phuket Temples, Wats and Shrines
 |
Chalong Temple
is
replete with history and legend. Many stories have been told
about how the miracles performed there and how the wat played a
pivotal and healing role in the fighting between Chinese secret
societies ('Angyee') in 1876.
Wat Chalong is
officially called 'Wat Chaitararam' by royal decree but not many
people use that name. Located in the northern part of Tambol
Chalong ('tambol' means sub-district in Thai) on Chao Fa West
Rd, the wat is close to many local attractions. The name 'Chalong'
means 'festival' in Thai - many years ago the area was named 'Chalang'
after locals, fearing Burmese invaders, had moved from Thalang
district. However, the Thai government pointed out that no such
word existed in the Thai language and ordered local officials to
change the name. |
What
to See at Wat Chalong
Wat Chalong has been
extending a warm welcome to visitors for over a century. Locals come to
pray and Westerners come to learn something about Buddhism. The temple
is open from seven in the morning to five in the afternoon. Let's go on
a tour of it.
Poh Than Jao Wat is one of the more important Buddhist statues in Wat
Chalong. It is located in the westerly old hall of the temple, with two
statues of an elderly gentleman called Ta Khee-lek (grandpa Khee-lek), a
famous local who won many lotteries after consulting the Poh Than Jao
Wat statue. Another statue in this hall is called Nonsi.
One of the temple's halls features a gilt-covered statue of Luang Poh
Cham and this busy hall also contains statues of Luang Poh Chuang and
Luang Poh Gleum, all ex-abbots of the temple.
The Grand Pagoda dominating the temple contains a splinter of Lord
Buddha's bone and is officially named
Phramahathatchedi-Jomthaibarameepragat. The pagoda is decorated with
wall paintings depicting the Buddha's life story and also features
various Buddha images. Take your time in the pagoda; it is a breezy,
cool location and one which is very popular with visitors to the temple.
There is also an air-conditioned 'exhibition home' of Luang Poh Cham
which features lifelike human-sized wax models of Luang Poh Cham, Luang
Poh Chuang, Luang Poh Gleum, and Luang Pu Thuad along with antique Thai
furniture, and Benjarong (Thai porcelain designed in five colours),
while the famous 'magic' walking-stick of Luang Poh Cham is kept at the
current Abbot's dwelling.
Wat Chalong's History
Ever since it was built,
Wat Chalong has played a major part in Phuket's history. During the 19th
century the island was an important centre of industry because of the
influx of wealth brought in through tin mining and many Chinese
labourers flocked to the island as a result. Some formed secret
societies and these 'Angyee' societies began to amass power. When tin
mine owners refused them the opium they had grown accustomed to they
became incensed. A small group of Angyee seized the Provincial Hall,
killing people in the process. Locals escaped to Wat Chalong and ran to
the Abbot, warning him of the imminent danger. He stated that as he had
been raised and educated at the temple he was not about to run away from
it. Locals took heart from him and stayed there. As a Buddhist monk,
Luang Poh Cham could not physically fight the Angyee but he rallied the
people to fight back whenever the Chinese attacked. The fighting was
fierce and the Chinese even breached the temple wall at one point and
this breach can be seen at the temple to this day.
Time after time the locals fought back against the attackers and others,
encouraged by their success, joined them. They pleaded with the Abbot
for a religious talisman to bring them good luck and he gave them pieces
of sanctified white cloth which they used as headbands. The Angyee
dubbed them the 'Whitehead Troups.' The climax came when the Chinese
labourers, drugged and stupefied by their opium, were attacked and
destroyed by the locals.
King Rama V (1853-1910) was informed about this victory. He invited
Luang Poh Cham to Bangkok in order to promote him to regional Abbot for
Phuket and its surrounding provinces. This was when the king bestowed
the royal title of Chaithararam on Wat Chalong.
Tales about Luang Poh
Cham
Luang Poh Cham's walking
stick is the subject of many tales. Apparently it had many healing
qualities and, as mentioned, it is in the possession of the current
Abbot. One of King Rama V's wives was cured of acute stomach ache by its
touch.
The most amusing story about Luang Poh Cham's walking-stick concerns a
local girl who was so desperate to get healed that she solemnly vowed to
gild his privates if he would rid her of her stomach pains. He healed
her (presumably the Abbot knew nothing about the details of her vow) but
she forgot about her promise. Thai people believe that breaking a
promise can bring evil upon people and sure enough, she fell ill again.
When her parents found out about her foolish oath (females must never
touch Buddhist monks) they approached the Abbot. His adroitness saved
the day. Out came the walking stick and Luang Poh Cham sat on it in such
a way that it protruded from his robes. The girl gilded it with gold
leaves and was subsequently cured.
This supernatural occurrence was the talk of the area for a while and
resulted in many Buddhists from as far away as Penang visiting Wat
Chalong.
The Repentant Thieves
While travelling back from his audience with King Rama V, Luang Poh Cham
and his entourage stopped for the night at a temple in Chumpon. He
insisted on staying in the unprotected main hall instead of a safer
inner room, saying that even though they may be robbed, the thieves
would not get far with their loot. It was exactly as he said: Thieves
came in the night and took all the monks' valuables. Later that morning,
the shamefaced thieves returned, bearing their loot and saying that the
further away they went the heavier the stolen articles had become.
After Luang Poh Cham passed away in 1908, his followers discovered that
his total wealth amounted to 50 satang (half a baht). Many people in
Malaysia and other provinces of Thailand heard about this sad news and
travelled to Phuket to pay their last respects. Luang Poh Cham's funeral
was the biggest ever held in southern Thailand.
Temples are much larger than shrines, with many structures in one
compound. Monks and nuns usually live in temples, but not in or around
shrines. This month we will take you to Phuket's most famous Buddhist
temple.
Wat Chalong: The wat you must visit
There is a saying among Thai tourists that if you are visiting Phuket
but have not yet set foot in Wat Chalong, then you have not really
arrived on the island.
No one knows exactly when the Wat Chalong was first established, though
many people believe the original was built during the reign of King Rama
II (1809-1842). It was later relocated and since then has been renovated
and augmented a number of times.

The most recent major addition to the wat was the construction of a
special chedi, 61.39 meters high and costing 66 million baht, to house a
fragment of bone from the Lord Buddha.
This fragment, the Phra Borom Sareerikatat to use the correct term, was
brought from Sri Lanka in 1999. It was installed in the chedi in
September 2002 in a consecration ceremony presided over by HRH Crown
Prince Maha Vajiralongkorn, representing HM the King.
Turbulent times
In 1876, during the reign of King Rama
V, Chalong came under threat from the Ang-Yee Rebellion - a large mob of
rioting immigrant Chinese tin-mine workers that had been rampaging
across the island.
Local people were terrified. They did not know where to turn. Should
they stay and fight? Should they run away?
They finally went to Luang Pho Chaem (1827-1908), Abbot of Wat Chalong.
The highly revered monk told them simply, "I have been here a long time,
and I am staying." Hearing this, the people decided to stay and fight
off the Ang-Yee. This they succeeded in doing and later, with the help
of soldiers rushed from Bangkok, the rebellion was put down.
To show appreciation, the King bestowed upon Luang Po Chaem the title of
Phra Kru Wisit Wongsacharn. These days, almost everyone in Thailand is
familiar with the name of this remarkable monk.
A statue of Luang Pho Chaem, alongside one of Luang Pho Chuang
(1875-1945) can be seen in the wat's main hall. Many Buddhist Thais go
there to stick gold leaf to these images as a part of paying respect to
the two famed abbots.
Loudly showing gratitude
When you visit Wat
Chalong, you may be startled by the sound of firecrackers. You will see
people hanging strings of Chinese firecrackers in beehive-shaped "ovens"
n ear
the wat's sermon hall, then igniting them. Although this is unusual in
other wats around Thailand, it is a common occurrence in Wat Chalong.
People do this to show gratitude for prayers that have been answered.
For example, if a woman is having trouble conceiving a child, she may
request help from Luang Pho Chaem. If she subsequently becomes pregnant,
she will light firecrackers to show her gratitude.
Or perhaps a man suffering from a debilitating illness may go to the wat
to pray for a return to good health. When he recovers, he will give
thanks by lighting firecrackers.
Right action
Wats in general are sacred places for local people, so it is wise for
the visitor to watch and emulate the way Thais behave inside temples.
For example, you will see
that people are careful not to stand over, or otherwise position
themselves higher than any Buddha images except when pasting gold leaf
to them - which in any case happens only in some wats, not in most.
Even through Thailand can sometimes be very warm, it is inappropriate to
go into a wat - a place of worship - wearing clothes that reveal one's
shoulders, chest, belly or legs.
You will be asked to take your shoes off when entering some of the
buildings, including the sermon hall and the chedi. It's best not to
wear your most expensive shoes when visiting wats in case someone else
mistaken walks away with them - literally! If that happens, and they are
not your favorite shoes, then you won't be too upset.
How to get to Wat Chalong
Wat Chalong is about 8 km south of Phuket City. Travel along Chao Fah
Nok Rd (Chao Fa West Rd) from the Central Festival mall, and you will
see the temple on the left side of the road. If you are coming from
Chalong Circle, take the same road heading towards town, and you will
see the temple on your right. |